Bookings for the 2023-204 season for Aotearoa’s Great Walks opened today, with many keen trampers working up a sweat while trying to secure a sought-after slot.
If you’d rather not gamble with finding a Great Walk spot, might we suggest some Very Good Walks instead? RNZ’s resident tramping experts (Māori News Editor Jamie Tahana, Political Reporter Anneke Smith and Specialist Correspondent John Gerritsen) share their recommendations.
NORTH ISLAND
The Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit is one of the more accessible tracks in the Tararua Forest Park. Photo: John Gerritsen
Holdsworth-Jumbo Circuit, Tararua Forest Park, Wairarapa
The Tararua ranges are famed and feared, delightful and daunting, their wicked weather notorious. I’ve attempted the famous Southern Crossing three times, but have never made it across, turning back each time. Twice by wind, once by surprise snow. But while the Tararuas must be respected, there are plenty of good options for beginners, the Holdsworth-Jumbo circuit probably the most accessible. It’s a well-graded, albeit steep (but there’s stairs, which compared to many of the other scrambles is a god-send) climb to Powell Hut. I haven’t been since the new hut opened, but by all accounts it’s flash, much flasher than the old one which was held down by wires with an ominous sign declaring it unsafe in winds over 180km/h. From Powell Hut, saunter through the tussocks and take in views that extend coast-to-coast to Jumbo Hut, before dropping down into the bush, the famous, twisted goblin forest, and to a nice refreshing river down below. Return to the Holdsworth Campsite, where you started, then to KFC in Masterton. – Jamie Tahana
BYO spade for a restorative hot pool experience at the end of walking the Tarawera Track. Photo: Michal Klajban
Tarawera Trail, Rotorua
This trail is a powerful example of how humbling hiking can be. It’s a spectacular meander along the shores of the deep, dark, delightful Lake Tarawera, looking across to the towering mountain of the same name, still scorched and scarred from the eruption that devastated this area in 1886. Walk across the old lava flows through vivid, dense regenerated bush, cross streams that bubble from natural springs, along a trail walked by Te Arawa tupuna for centuries. The best part comes at the end of the trail, about five hours from the carpark, when you reach a beach and campsite with its own bubbling hot pools. BYO tent and BYO spade, return the same way. – Jamie Tahana
Don't be so taken by the views on the Pouakai Circuit that you stumble into a swamp. Photo: Sarang
Pouakai Circuit, Taranaki
The first time I did this easy walk on the Pouakai Range, on the shoulder of Taranaki Mounga, a plank of wood across a swamp gave way beneath, sending me sinking hip deep into the murky depths below. I grasped at the next plank, hoping to claw myself out, but that gave way too, sending the rest of me into the swamp. Take only pictures, leave only footprints and your dignity, not that you have any when you’re dressed in boots, a striking long-john and shorts combo, a merino shirt and a bright green raincoat. After cleaning off in a nearby stream, we climbed what seemed an infinite number of steps to the top, ready for the much-touted breathtaking views. We saw nothing but fog. Tramping is fun. Tramping is torture.
I returned a few weeks ago to cleanse myself of this bitter memory, and gosh did it deserve a second chance. We did it in two days, but if you’re fresh, you can carve it up in three. Start by punishing your lungs in a steep climb called The Puffer, before tracing a path along the dramatic face of the mountain – its pretty mosses, its deep gashes, historic lava flows, and dramatic colours and contours that only reveal themselves when you come face to face. Cross the kidneys of Taranaki – the Ahukawakawa Swamp, tranquil and dramatic in equal measure – before enjoying views that extend hundreds of kilometres north and west, New Plymouth just a speck below. Then drop into the dense native bush, the towering trees, the deep bouldered river gorges, wrapping up a nice loop. - Jamie Tahana
Cape Brett Hut is the former lighthouse keeper's house. Photo: Pseudopanax at English Wikipedia
Cape Brett Hut, Bay of Islands
If you’re living in Auckland and looking for a semi-local adventure this two-day walk in the Bay of Islands is the one for you. It’s a unique tramping adventure traversing 16 km of rugged coastal terrain out to the end of the peninsula to the red-roofed, weatherboard Cape Brett Hut, formerly the lighthouse keeper’s hut. It’s a very special place, teeming with wildlife, and one of the few huts with a sweeping ocean view at the dining table. This tramp is best for experienced walkers or those who are fit and up for a challenge, as the track is exposed in some places. Trampers are currently advised to take their own water as the tank water at the hut is too salty for drinking. – Anneke Smith
WALKS FOR LITTLE LEGS
Taking small trampers on their first outdoors adventure? John Gerritsen recommends these two right-sized trips:
Camp at the Mount Holdsworth DOC camping ground in the Tararua Forest Park near Masterton
There’s a great little river (so take togs) and walk up to the Atiwhakatu Hut (you’ll need to book) for a night. It’s about three hours walk with kids (I think) with big trees and some swing bridges (thrilling for the littlies!).
Catchpool Valley to Orongorongo river walk (from near Wainuiomata)
Extremely easy two-hour walk through beautiful bush to a stony river (then back out the same way). Depending on water flows there is usually somewhere to swim. There’s lots of huts you can book.
We took a baby buggy on this track once. It has a big swing bridge. I remember my kids just being in raptures over the forest and the light through the trees. There are a few different options for longer routes in and out so people who are fit can do more.
SOUTH ISLAND
The hills are alive... but you don't have to climb them on the St James Walkway. Photo: Michal Klajban
St James Walkway, Canterbury
If you love mountains, but hate inclines, then this is the track for you. It’s pretty much flat, and you can pretty much walk it with your eyes closed. But why would you, the vista that surrounds you is breathtaking. It’s long, but easy, the Department of Conservation saying it takes five days, but if you plan well enough and take advantage of the long southern days, it can be done quicker. It has tall beech forest, straightforward passes, majesting mountains, alpine scrub, fields and fields of tussock, wide rivers, and historic huts. A great intro. – Jamie Tahana
The Copland Track offers a taste of the deep West Coast native forest. Photo: Michal Klajban
Copland Track, West Coast
The Te Arawa in me seems to be drawn to hot pools, and this one delivers. It’s a tantalising taster of the deep, haunting, West Coast forest, its mossy twisted trees, alwasy seemingly cloaked in fog, as you follow a roaring creek up into a narrowing valley, climbing gradually into the lower reaches of the Southern Alps – it’s the best try-before-you-buy example of mountaineering in the great spine of Te Wai Pounamu. From the large, cosy, hut, the hot pools are just a short stroll away, with fine views of the mountain range that surrounds you, let the kea squawk above as you recline back and soak those weary legs. Return the same way, but it’s a wholly different view. – Jamie Tahana
The Travers-Sabine circuit in Nelson Lakes has something for every tramping taste. Photo: John Gerritsen
Travers-Sabine Circuit, Nelson Lakes National Park
This one takes about five days, so it’s for the keen and fit. You walk (or boat) up the side of Lake Rotoiti which is really easy and absolutely beautiful. Then up the Travers Valley through beech forest with the most astonishing green moss. The up into the alpine zone over a mountain pass (kea!) and down into the Sabine Valley to Lake Rotoroa and out by walking up over to the Mount Robert carpark. I first did it 35 years ago! But I did the Travers section about five years ago. – John Gerritsen
The Rees-Dart track is not for the faint-hearted (or the kea-averse). Photo: Eli Duke
Rees-Dart Track, Mt Aspiring National Park
Situated 68 km out of Queenstown, via Glenorchy, this trail boasts mountainous scenery that rivals that seen on the busy Routeburn. It has it all; sweeping valleys, forest and alpine vegetation and glacier-fed rivers, but trampers be warned it’s not for the faint-hearted. This is an advanced track in Mount Aspiring National Park, tracking 63 km over four to five days. It’s highly recommended to build in an extra day to do a day trip from Dart Hut to Dart Glacier and back to Dart Hut. Here you can get close to Cascade Saddle with sweeping views down the Matukituki River. This tramp is best for experienced walkers, given it’s a week-long tramp through alpine terrain. – Anneke Smith
Queen Charlotte Track is a 73km route that can be done on foot or by bike. Photo: Miles Holden
Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough Sounds
This is a beautiful journey in the Marlborough Sounds that can be done on foot or by bike. The 73 km track is well-marked and can take anywhere between three and five days, depending on how fast you want to go. It is worth taking your time though, as you’re never too far from a scenic lookout or sandy bay in this lush landscape. Think of it as an active, walking holiday that would suit anyone or group with intermediate experience. It’s also one of the few tramps that has restaurants located along the trail and a bag transport service for those that want it to be that little bit more relaxing. – Anneke Smith