Prepping a Christmas table shouldn't stress you out, says chef Peter Gordon. Photo: Maddi Bazzocco / Unsplash
Nearly 10 years ago, annoyed that luxury Christmas recipe spreads in magazines were making me feel inadequate, I set out to prove that it was possible to whip up a festive meal for six people for under $100.
All the ingredients came from my local supermarket and cost $92.20, including a bottle of wine. The menu - a marinated and barbecued leg of lamb, roast potatoes, a big, fresh salad and a dessert of berries with chocolate sauce - was simple enough not to cause the cook any undue stress, but fancy enough to feel like a treat.
Doing the maths on that same meal now makes me lose my appetite. It's not news that everything is more expensive than it used to be. Unless you can get it on special, the lamb chews through nearly half the budget (and that's buying the cheapest available). The fizzy wine will have to drop off the list to keep things on budget and the salad will be basic at best. Is that ok, for a festive celebration?
Yes, says New Zealand culinary icon Peter Gordon.
Peter Gordon says it's not worth spending what you can't afford on festive food. Photo: Supplied
"Christmas doesn't need to be expensive," he says.
"The last thing anyone needs is pressure to turn out some amazing meal they can't afford."
Gordon, a chef and restaurateur best known for pioneering 'fusion' cuisine, is often thought of in terms of high-end cooking. But through community cooking days at Homeland, his Auckland café, restaurant and cook school, Gordon has seen a very different side of life.
"We work with lots of wonderful people on Homeland community days, people helping those in need - and they tell us how tough it is out there for so many families."
Gordon says freeing yourself from traditions is a good way to save money (and energy) in the festive season.
"Don't set your heart on a specific menu. If you go to the supermarket with an open mind, you can buy whatever protein and veggies are the cheapest at the time and find a recipe that works with those.
"No one says Christmas needs to be all about turkey and ham. It can even be about burgers on the barbecue - make them Christmassy by using cranberry relish and red onions in vinegar, and maybe a slightly fancier cheese than usual."
He's got lots of good, common sense advice that's worth re-upping for anyone caught in a festive head-spin.
Using locally grown, seasonal fruit and vegetables will save money - cucumbers and tomatoes are coming into their best (the 'Minister of Fruit and Veges', Glenn Forsyth, also says that sweetcorn is on the way next week.
"Even a good old grated carrot salad," Gordon says.
Like my whānau (my mother-in-law once cooked 50 potatoes for five people), he's also a big fan of using potatoes to bulk things out. If potatoes aren't your idea of a Christmas treat, other bring other carbs to the party.
Macaroni cheese is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser, Gordon says. Photo: © Manja Wachsmuth Photography
"A big potato bake or a good mac n cheese is a great way to feed a lot of people," Gordon says.
"Who doesn't like those? Or a huge rice dish like risotto or biriyani. A good risotto can even be your main dish, which means you don't need to spend lots of money on big chunks of meat."
When it comes to meat, Gordon says it's better to keep it simple.
Say no to multiple protein combos and yes to a roast chook or two. Photo: 123rf
"You don't need multiple proteins - even just a roast chicken or two will be delicious. Sometimes if you buy those frozen, they are even cheaper. If you are cooking roast chicken, roast it breast side down for 30 minutes on 180 degrees Celsius and then turn it over for the rest of the time. Don't truss it, loosen the legs for a moister chicken.
And I think stuffing is much better if you cook it separately and make it all crispy."
If you're worried that your feast might look a bit plain, Gordon says sauces and dressings are a great way to make things look fancier.
"You can buy something pre-made or do something like take a cup of yoghurt, add the juice and zest of a lemon and then add lots of fresh chopped herbs like parsley, mint, basil. Mustard or horseradish will add a little zing too if you have it around. Just use what you have, or what you can afford."
What about pudding? Fruit and ice cream, with crumbled biscuits or toasted coconut on top, will do the trick, Gordon says.
Ice cream and fruit is fancy enough for Christmas, chef Peter Gordon says. Photo: 123rf
"Or use a store-bought sponge and make trifle with whatever fruit and custard you can afford. Sprinkle toasted coconut or nuts on the top to make it look special or use those crushed biscuits again."
His very best tip is especially for all the Christmas martyrs out there, who are preparing themselves for financial and physical exhaustion in pursuit of a memorable meal.
"Let people bring things. You don't have to make everything yourself. Make it fun by choosing a theme - something like Vietnamese or Chinese where you can use inexpensive ingredients and make them really tasty. Everyone can bring a dish that relates to that theme, and it won't cost anyone the earth."