A Kiwi kitchen isn't really complete without a copy of The Edmonds Cookbook.
The family behind the iconic Christchurch baking powder company Edmonds lovingly shares its history in the new book Sure to Rise: The Edmonds Story.
Thomas (centre) poses proudly with his staff. By 1902 his four sons were working for him: Ernest is seated at the back, with James and Will seated below him, and George is standing far right. Jim Knight is on the far left. Photo: Kete Christchurch, Collection of Burnside Family.
Sure to Rise is not just a history of a Kiwi food company and a cookbook, it's also a social history of Aotearoa. Two of its authors - Kate Parsonson (the great-great-granddaughter of founders Thomas and Jane Edmonds) and historian Richard Wolfe join Kathryn Ryan.
Listen to the full conversation
Thomas and Jane Edmonds relocated from East London to New Zealand in 1879, Parsonson tells Nine to Noon.
“Both Thomas and Jane were born in Poplar in the East End of London and in Victorian times with rapid industrialisation ... [amongst] the population of that part of London there was overcrowded conditions, subsequent health issues.
“I think the promise of roast lamb was too good to not take up.”
Inside the Edmonds factory, c.1908. Thomas and Will are in the office, with tins of baking, custard and egg powder ready for dispatch. Photo: Kete Christchurch, Collection of Burnside Family.
On arrival in New Zealand, Thomas started to hear complaints from housewives that the baking powder here wasn’t up to scratch, Wolfe says.
“There were a number of baking powders on the market but they were all pretty unreliable. A cook couldn't guarantee that a cake or scones were going to rise.
"So Thomas Edmonds decided that he would try and rectify this issue and mixed up a formula.”
Edmonds factory, 1912. Thomas and Will stand together in front of the factory next to the car. Photo: Christmas Number of The Weekly Press, Collection of Peter Alsop.
Wolfe and Parsonson both suspect that Jane Edmonds had a lot to do with the final baking soda formula but it was Thomas who came upon the famous Edmonds slogan, which survives to this day in all of their marketing, by chance.
"When he offered [his baking powder] to the customer who'd had a few failures, they said 'will your baking powder work?' He said words to the effect of ‘Madam, it’s sure to rise'. He thought 'Well, it’s a great slogan'.”
Thomas turned out to be a naturally brilliant marketer, the writers say, who would only accept payment from satisfied customers.
“Slowly I think over time, one or two people tried it, and it gained a bit of traction. And so, the orders started rolling in. But he really started from nothing," Wolfe adds.
Sure to Rise: The Edmonds Story Photo: Supplied
Working with the Illot advertising agency, the Edmonds brand soon became a household name in New Zealand and their famous cookbook was another clever marketing tactic.
“The book was basically free until 1955. I think you had to send in a penny stamp, and you would receive one in the mail.
“From the beginning, I think this deep love emerged for the book. And it has become iconic and familiar. And even today, it's in most Kiwis’ kitchens and hearts, I guess.”
The Edmonds company expanded rapidly and larger and larger premises were built in Christchurch to meet demand, but by the 1980s tastes were changing, Wolfe says.
“I think the company became very vulnerable, it had sort of perhaps diversified a bit too much gone away from the core business, which was baking powder, which, to be fair, was no longer sufficient to sustain the industry by itself.”
Sure to Rise: The Edmonds Story Photo: Supplied
Eventually, Edmonds fell victim to 1980s-style corporate raiding, the factory was demolished and even the prize-winning gardens were bowled, Wolfe says.
Luckily, local residents saw the demolition taking place and were able to save some precious artefacts, adds Parsonson.
“The gardens actually are still there today. They were bowled, but at the time of the demolition, the people in the neighbourhood came out and realised what was happening.
They scooped all sorts of goodies out of a skip bin, and then the Friends of the Gardens was set up and is still running today and they maintain the garden along with the council.”