144 Islands: A Northland vineyard inspired by vines from days gone by

An old grapevine in a secret garden was the lightbulb moment which set Northland winegrower Jake Dromgool on the path to his own wine label, 144 Islands.

By an old hut, and among century old fruit trees, the vine was rampant, reaching over the top of the tall totara trees, its grapes dangling among their branches.

Dromgool's father, a Bay of Islands bull breeder and dairy farmer, had just purchased the land as an extension to his operation.

As Dromgool was already working at The Landing, a local vineyard, it dawned on the Dromgools they should try diversifying into wine growing themselves.

Within a month, posts were being rammed in.

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That was in 2015 and now the 3.2-hectare vineyard, set on volcanic soils 290m above sea level not far from Kerikeri, produces 15,000 bottles a year, with yet more rows going in this year to expand production to 40,000.

The site's elevation is enough to escape the humidity of the coast and the soil make-up achieves great balance - vines that are not too vigorous nor too weak - Dromgool told Country Life.

The relatively high and consistent temperatures throughout the year are also beneficial.

"We're in a little bit of a climatic sweet spot, as far as grape growing this far north is concerned."

"We can pick fruit just about any time during the harvest window, and know it's going to taste delicious."

Dromgool grows several grape varieties, although some are not produced commercially.

The first plantings nearly a decade ago were a mixture of whatever the nursery had left at the time, as they were "in a rush" to get started - Sauvignon, Semillon, Chardonnay, Marsanne, Chenin Blanc to name a few.

"Some of which had, you know, proven themselves around here, and I knew would be successful, some of which I was just particularly interested in, some of which were purely just a curiosity."

"Like most of the things I've done in my life, it tends to be a case of throwing a dart at the wall and drawing a bullseye around it later."

Among the lesser known varieties Alberino, Petit Manseng, Petit Verdot, Roussane and Marsanne have worked particularly well, he said.

A leaf out of James Busby's wine manual

As an "amateur history enthusiast" Dromgool was particularly drawn to Marsanne because of the white grape variety's connection to James Busby, British Resident and wine enthusiast, who in 1833 planted grapes around his home in Waitangi, now known as the Treaty House.

"James Busby must have been onto something, because Marsanne is now probably one of our most successful grapes."

It's included in one of 144 Islands' most popular wines, Marnie Manon, named after Dromgool's daughter.

"It sort of smells like jasmine tea and Magnolia flowers and tastes like gingernut biscuits and it's something I really enjoy growing."

Apart from a range of 10 or so wines, Dromgool offers a range of fortified wines - vermouth - flavoured with native tree bark.

As for that original rampant grapevine, Dromgool suspects it is the strawberry-tasting Isabella variety - favoured by Dalmation migrants, many of whom grew grapes in New Zealand.

"It doesn't lend itself very well to making wine from unfortunately, but it is pretty delicious."

As well as planting a further 800 Marsanne vines this year, Dromgool is thinking of building a place to host visitors under the canopy of that original rambling vine.

Learn more:

• Find out more about 144 Islands here
• Follow John Douglas' year growing and making wine in View from the vines