New Zealand Fashion Week steps back onto the catwalk this week after a three-year hiatus. Photo: CHRISSY YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHY
New Zealand Fashion Week steps back on the catwalk tomorrow, with a range of glamorous shows and talks taking place in Auckland from 29 August to 3 September.
The event has changed a lot since the first New Zealand Fashion Week in 2001, which was opened by then-Prime Minister Helen Clark and featured models skidding over on a catwalk covered in soap suds that were meant to look like snow. Subsequent fashion weeks over the past two decades featured the likes of model Nicky Watson in a scattering of diamantes and not much else, actress Pamela Anderson in a sarong and one unfortunate model whose outfit by Morrinsville designer Annah Stretton included a taxidermied boar's head. Between 2020 and 2022 the event was cancelled completely, which saved attendees and designers alike the hassle of having to find a Covid mask to match their outfits.
All of which begs the question, what is New Zealand Fashion Week really about? Yasmin Farry, general manager of this year's event, bravely answered RNZ's unfashionable questions.
New Zealand Fashion Week general manager Yasmin Farry. Photo: Supplied
What's the point of Fashion Week? Is it just an excuse for influencers to get dressed up and drink champagne?
Fashion Week used to be purely for the industry - designers, retailers and media - but that's changed, Farry says.
"The purpose of it used to be for the industry, local media, buyers to view collections for forward seasons. New Zealand Fashion Week as it stands today is a slightly different model because of the way the world has changed, and the way people are buying and viewing clothes.
"Essentially it's now a platform to elevate our incredible New Zealand fashion industry, as well as all our creative communities that go into making the clothes and the shows."
The week might look like an indulgent party, but Farry says the pandemic years were bleak for fashion and the industry is still dealing with a post-Covid hangover.
"Covid is responsible for a change in how people dress; people aren't working in an office five days a week anymore… they're probably wearing trackies and exercise clothes at home two days a week now."
What 'season' are the clothes being shown at New Zealand Fashion Week? What is a fashion season now, anyway?
Once upon a time, fashion weeks were held four times a year to showcase clothes for upcoming seasons (plus a couple of extras, like 'Resort' and 'Pre-Fall', which are just ways to induce people to buy more clothes for seasons that don't really exist). Now, with fast fashion retailers churning out a new 'season' every week, times have changed.
New Zealand Fashion Week has taken a much more liberated and democratic approach, Farry says.
"We've left it open to designers to decide what they want to show," Farry says.
"While there are definitely brands that have traditional seasons, especially brands that are selling into international markets, essentially lot of brands are doing in-season collections, or trans-seasonal collections, or seasonless collections. So the clothes can be worn whenever."
New Zealand fashion designer Kate Sylvester will be commemorating 30 years working in the local industry at 2023 New Zealand Fashion Week. Photo: NZ Fashion Week
Is it all womenswear on show, or will there be some clothes for men too?
New Zealand Fashion Week is for everyone, Farry says.
"There will be some clothes for men, there is a small smattering of menswear labels this year, but again: some of the collections are perhaps genderless, so there may be some men modelling things that might not traditionally be considered menswear."
When will these clothes be on sale?
"That will depend on the designer and the runway show but the majority will be available in-store now," Farry says.
Who is New Zealand Fashion Week for? Buyers? Designers? Media? You and me?
All the above, Farry says.
"The platform is there for designers to be able to tell their unique brand stories to their own customer base, and also to local and international media."
That includes influencers as well, Farry says ("some brands do rely on influencers to get that brand story out there and sell their collections") so brace yourself for an influx of #sponsoredcontent in your social media feeds in the coming weeks.
Can ordinary civilians go too?
"Definitely," Farry says.
"This year we have more shows on the programme that the general public can go to throughout the whole week. The response so far has been wonderful; we've been delighted by it."
Former All Black captain Richie McCaw and former Black Stick Gemma Flynn in the front row. Photo:
Who gets to sit in the Front Row?
Farry diplomatically says that "it depends". At private shows, designers hand-pick the 'Frow' (that means VIPs, celebrities, big-spender customers, international buyers and media are usually top of the list).
At ticketed New Zealand Fashion Week shows, anyone can buy a front-row seat, which sometimes includes "pre-show hosting" (that's drinks and snacks to the uninitiated).
Is there a dress code?
"No dress code, but I would encourage people to wear what they feel most comfortable and fabulous in, and be themselves," Farry says.
"It is Fashion Week though, you probably want to feel good and look good, based on what makes you feel amazing."
Is there phone etiquette? Is if bad form if I don't have my phone out recording it for TikTok?
"That depends on who you are - if you're media you probably want to record a show," Farry says.
"But for me personally, I just want to watch it with my eyes. I hope I won't be judged for not pulling my phone out."
Bella Hadid gets spray-painted with fabric at Paris Fashion Week October 2022. Photo: JULIEN DE ROSA / AFP
At Paris Fashion Week 2022, a practically nude Bella Hadid was spray-painted with a spray paint-like fabric, and she then modelled the resulting dress on the catwalk. Can we expect any stunts like that?
Farry doesn't think that kind of "money can't buy" experience will be on offer but says there will still be plenty of wow factor.
"From what I've heard, all the shows will be absolutely incredible experiences for the audience."
Is there a 'look' for models at Fashion Week 2023? Are they all going to be taller and skinnier than the rest of us?
Farry doesn't want to give anything away, but hints there will be some variety in model size and shape on the catwalk this year.
"We have encouraged designers to embrace diversity, and I have heard from a couple that they definitely are, which is amazing. I'm really happy that designers are aware that they need to represent the range of people who actually buy and wear clothes."