Just which of the thousands of PFAS compounds are in makeup can be hard to pin down, compounded by the fact that New Zealand's system for identifying chemicals in imports is full of holes, according to official reports. (file image) Photo: 123rf
The Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) is proposing New Zealand follow Europe and ban 'forever chemicals' from cosmetics.
Toxic PFAS chemicals are used to boost spreadability, shine and water resistance.
Environmental science professor Sally Gaw said too little was known about which chemicals were in what, and what they might do to you.
"People tend to have their favourite products, and people will use it all the time. And some chemicals can cross the skin," she said.
"It also depends on what else is in the make-up that might help the PFAS cross the skin."
The chemicals persist and build up in the environment and body. Their links to several cancers, and immune and cholestoral conditions were the subject of global study and debate.
"It's a class of chemicals that we use very, very widely," Gaw said.
"But the more we find out about them, the less we're keen on them."
Just which of the thousands of PFAS compounds are in makeup can be hard to pin down, compounded by the fact that New Zealand's system for identifying chemicals in imports is full of holes, according to official reports.
"Because we don't fully know what's in them, we can't risk assess for them, we can't actually manage or prevent environmental and health risks from chemicals that we use in our everyday lives," Gaw said.
The EPA was consulting on the ban which it wants in force by the end of 2025.
A US study last year found more than half of sampled cosmetic products contained high levels of PFAS.
"In particular, the categories of face, lip, and mascara contained the largest proportion of products with high concentrations. For example, 82 percent of waterproof mascaras containing high levels," said a Harvard University commentary.
The EU's move against PFAS in a whole range of products would constitute "one of the largest chemical bans ever imposed in Europe".
Here, the EPA favours a broad ban in cosmetics, to keep out the many compounds that not much was known about.
There were alternatives for manufacturers, the EPA said.
The cosmetics industry had a track record of attempting to put alarming compounds in things, Gaw said.
"If you go back and read the full list of what chemicals are banned in makeup, which most likely suggests that somebody's tried to put them in there somewhere in the world, there's some very, very potent things in there."
The banned list runs to almost 1700 chemicals - atropine was one, "which will make your eyes light up, you'll look great", Gaw said, and heavy metals were on the list, too - "think of Queen Elizabeth the first, covered in lead powder".
The ban would mean "we've got people wearing less PFAS, and a formulation that might be able to cross the skin, potentially protecting children that are developing in utero from being exposed to these chemicals as well".
It would also reduce PFAS in wastewater.
"It's always good to take a precautionary approach when we find very persistent chemicals that are popping up everywhere - and particularly if we don't fully understand what they're going to do."
The first estimates of PFAS emissions from cosmetics in Europe showed they occur at concentrations that sometimes exceed current limits.
"While the proportion of products listing PFAS ingredients was small relative to the total number of products on the market, the emissions to wastewater and solid waste may be significant, albeit lower than other sources (e.g. outdoor textiles)," it said.