By Lincoln Feast, Reuters
The surf break at Teahupo'o. Photo: Getty Images / Ryan Pierse
Kevin Wallis might have just about the toughest job at the Olympic surfing venue of Teahupo'o in Tahiti this week.
As director of forecasting at Surfline.com, which partners with the Olympic surfing organisers, the American has to tell them what conditions will be like, days in advance and down to the last minute, to advise of the best times to run competition.
Doing that on a remote island in the South Pacific is mostly science, but there's some art too.
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Wednesday brought home the challenges of making a call.
With time running out to finish competition, organisers decided to send the women's round three out into a maelstrom of 4.5-metre stormy surf at one of the world's most dangerous waves.
They quickly changed their minds and cancelled competition for the day, leaving a nail-biting wait to wrap up the event and decide the medals.
"There's a 10-day window (for competition) and we've got four days to run all the way through the event," Wallis told Reuters.
"In a perfect world, you get four really great days of surf like we had on Monday morning, but that doesn't always happen.
"We've been super lucky so far. We've had two and a half days of anywhere from good to unbelievably all-time good in the case of Monday morning.
"So I would just look whether we get anything more like that the rest of the waiting period - probably not - but we've got a day and a half to finish. We've got to try and find the best day and a half left in the waiting period."
Portugal's Yolanda Hopkins turns off the lip of a wave at Teahupo'o. Photo: AFP / Ben Thouard
Westerly swell
Monday's waves were somewhat atypical, with a westerly swell that created thick slabs of water when they hit Teahupo'o's unique reef, providing spectacular viewing and challenging conditions even for the world's best surfers.
"In this case, we had a low develop over near Fiji almost due west of Tahiti and then it kind of dived down to the south of Tahiti. So it set up a very westerly swell to start with, which is not unprecedented, but not typical either."
The weather system also drove some interesting local winds. "clocking around and doing all sorts of weird things" due to the mountains and canyons behind the village, he said.
"As that storm moved all the way past and the front came through, winds shifted in the west, onshore, it's poured rain ... It went from as good as it gets to about as bad as it gets in an hour."
With the clock counting down to complete the event, Wallis is in hot demand from surfers, officials and media.
"My popularity it wanes with how good the waves actually look. But, yeah, everyone's obviously interested in what the waves were doing over the next few days.
So Monday's epic conditions maybe made him some friends?
"I look back and it wasn't a perfect forecast by any means ... but, yeah, under promise, over deliver. That's always a good rule of thumb in forecasting."
And the verdict for the days ahead? Thursday is looking decent with solid, overhead waves but maybe still a little jumbled, then small and, at best, only decent surf for the remainder of the waiting period.
A surfer himself - "that's how I got into this racket" - Wallis said during Tuesday's stormy weather he might go for a quick wave, but at a little river mouth break near the main reef.
"Ah no ... Well, maybe the river mouth here. But out at Teahupo'o - no way," he said laughing.
"It's terrifying out there right now."
- Reuters