By Anna Chisholm for ABC
Unboxing videos have become the norm on social media, which makes 'underconsumption core' a surprising new trend.
Instead of videos showing off new items, many users have started posting the opposite. Think videos of scuffed runners and unpolished nails.
The trend makes sense during a cost-of-living crisis and seems to promote sustainable living. But it also said more about how social media pressures us to buy.
'Underconsumption core' or real life?
You might've seen the trend on Tiktok.
The signature 'underconsumption core' title is followed by a curated montage of well-used, second-hand and treasured items, with home and beauty featured often.
Thrifted dining tables, jars reused as storage containers, second-hand cars, unbranded water bottles, mismatched towels and cleaning rags have all been celebrated.
Catherine Jia lives on Gadigal land in Sydney and uses her Instram accounts @project.catherine and @slowlyhomeclub to document the slow evolution of her apartment and wardrobe, often through 'DIY', thrifted and repaired items.
Catherine said the trend promotes "overcoming the habit of overconsumption".
"It focuses on buying less, reusing items, and reducing waste, highlighting the importance of making conscious decisions to consume less for the benefit of the planet."
A growing trend in an expensive time
However, the trend has been criticised for glamourising realistic consumption, and some posts and comments on TikTok refer to it as 'normal consumption core' instead.
There is often comments under these posts questioning whether the videos are underconsumption or "just living" or "actually regular consumption", especially as the cost of living soars.
Catherine says social media has "distorted our perception of normal consumption".
But she said "it's all about progress over perfection".
Brent Coker, a lecturer in Marketing at the University of Melbourne, agreed.
"Brands have been promoting mass consumerism for years now through their advertising … convincing us that what we're wearing is no longer relevant," he says.
He points to other trends such as the renewed popularity of capsule wardrobes, suggesting consumers are waking up to the pressure to buy and the impact of fast fashion on the environment.
Social media is speeding up our consumption
Coker said that social media has "without a doubt" sped up the turnover of fashion, and platforms are now infiltrated by retailers.
"A lot of young people get their fashion ideas and encounter new clothing brands through Instagram, for example."
"People want [an influencer's] life and they're willing to copy it. They want that new shirt, that new tank top, and a pair of loafers that that influencer is endorsing."
Often there's just a few extra clicks for someone to buy it for themselves, after seeing it during a scroll.
Coker said trends such as 'underconsumption core' are helping to move consumers in "a positive", more sustainable direction.
He said "it's going to gain momentum" as some consumers want to minimise their environmental impact.
Catherine's approach to her home and style has been about sustainability for some time, and she hopes underconsumption core is more than a fleeting trend.
"Calling it a 'core' insinuates it's not going to stick around … like cottagecore and barbiecore," she said. "I think we can improve the phrase."
She encourages anyone inspired by underconsumption core to consider "extending the life of items you already own, whether through repairing or mending".
- ABC