Ellis Park has a fearsome reputation as a hostile environment and intimidating stadium. And that's just for the spectators, given that the 94-year-old venue sits in the middle of a city synonymous with crime. The Doornfontein suburb where Ellis Park sits is no exception to the challenges the city faces.
It's why games there kick off in the afternoon, rather than at night, so fans don't have to leave the area once it's dark.
However, things are changing in Johannesburg. A new rail link connects Ellis Park (known officially as Emirates Airlines Stadium for sponsorship purposes) with the rest of the city, with two local train services joining forces to ensure fans can go to and from the game safely. On Sunday those services organised a trip for media on the link, which ended with a walk on the famous stadium's pristine playing surface.
"The city of Johannesburg has grappled with the issues of safety for the longest of times," former mayor and local government representative Kabelo Gwamanda said.
"Safety is our main concern, so that our patrons can enjoy the game without having any other worries. We have ensured with local law enforcement that we will mitigate any form of threats that will be associated with the game.
"Having a game of this magnitude, we can expect it will attract the wrong kinds of element. So in our state of readiness those are some of the critical issues we needed to address…so that our patrons can enjoy the game without the worry of being mugged."
It is strangely refreshing to hear a politician be so upfront about crime, but really Gwamanda can't downplay the 2500 homicides that happen in Johannesburg every year. For context: that's double the entire homicide total of New Zealand this century.
Sam Cane lifting the Freedom Cup after beating the Springboks at Ellis Park, 2022. Photo: PHOTOSPORT
Still, the rail link is a positive step for the area. Hishaam Emeran, chief executive of the Passenger Rail Agency South Africa, proudly boasted that train wi-fi networks were on the cards as people didn't feel as worried about being on their phones or tablets while commuting.
Many on the government-organised trip on the link said it was quite incredible that this level of cooperation had been achieved, and it gave hope for future infrastructure projects in Johannesburg.
"It is always an opportunity for the city to showcase our improvement. For a long time we've had challenges, but as we improve it's important to demonstrate that we have world class events," Gwamada said.
Ellis Park chief executive George Stainton, who first took over the job from the colourful and controversial Louis Luyt, said the stadium was a special place.
"Ellis Park has a reputation for not being the safest and Kiwis have concerns about that - which is totally understandable," said Stainton, after pointing out the spot where Joel Stransky kicked his famous winning drop goal in the 1995 World Cup final.
"We've worked on the transport side…it's seamless so in any of the areas you can come to within 100 metres of the stadium entrance."
There are around 100 All Black fans who have travelled over for the test match this weekend, all staying in the relatively safe Sandton area to the north of the city. Many of them are finding out the hard way that paying for goods in cash is a quick way to annoy a bartender or shopkeeper, who simply don't want to carry rand notes around with them for fear of being robbed.
Stainton hopes that the 62,000 fans who will descend on Ellis Park for the test will get there early, especially the All Black fans who will experience Ellis Park for the first time.
"In South Africa braais are a must. Out on the Ellis Park outer fields there's food, music, stuff for the kids, everything has been sorted out for the entertainment experience. It's amazing, I was very fortunate to be here for the World Cup final in 1995. It's electric, when you hear the South African national anthem, it really lifts everything up."
As for the game itself? Unsurprisingly both the stadium chief executive and former mayor of the city are picking a Springbok victory.
Springboks v All Blacks
Kick-off: 3am Sunday 1 September (NZT)
Ellis Park, Johannesburg
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